Everything on this page is about one thing: getting the transfer to bond to the fibre and stay there. Temperature, time and pressure do the bonding. The cold peel and the second press do the staying. Get those four right and the rest is detail.
The settings
| Fabric | Temp | Time | Pressure | Peel |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton, blends, tri-blends | 300°F / 150°C | 12 s | Firm | Cold |
| Polyester, performance | 280°F / 138°C | 15 s | Firm | Cold |
| Fleece, hoodies, sweats | 300°F | 15 s | Firm | Cold |
| Canvas, denim, twill | 300°F | 12 s | Firm | Cold |
| Nylon, coated | 270°F / 132°C | 15 s | Medium | Cold |
| Leather, faux leather | 270°F | 10 s | Light | Cold |
Then, every time: peel cold, and press again for 5 seconds through parchment paper or a Teflon sheet.
Before you press
Check the platen temperature
Press dials lie. A $10 infrared thermometer on the platen tells you what yours actually reads; 20°F off is common on a clamshell that’s a few years old. If yours reads low, set the dial higher until the platen hits 300.
Pre-press the garment
Five seconds, no transfer. It drives out moisture — cotton holds more than you’d think — and flattens the weave so the transfer sits evenly. Skip it on a humid day and the first thing you’ll notice is edges lifting.
Pressure means pressure
Firm: on a clamshell, you should need real effort to close it. On a pneumatic or auto press, 40–60 psi. The test: close the press on a sheet of paper at the edge of the platen and try to pull it out. If it slides, it’s too loose.
Seams and zippers
Anything that keeps the platen from lying flat — a seam under the transfer, a zipper, a pocket — leaves an unpressed patch. Use a pressing pillow or fold the garment so the transfer area is flat on the lower platen with the obstruction hanging off the edge.
The peel
Our film is cold peel. Let it cool to room temperature — 20 to 30 seconds — before lifting the film. Peel low and slow, pulling the film back along the shirt rather than up away from it. If you’re doing a batch, press four, then peel the first; by then it’s cooled.
Peeling warm is the number-one cause of failed transfers, and it’s not close. The adhesive hasn’t set; you pull ink and glue off with the film and leave a thin, patchy print that will crack.
The second press
After the film is off, lay parchment or a Teflon sheet over the design and press again for 5 seconds. This drives the ink into the fibre, flattens the transfer, and kills the plastic sheen. It’s the difference between a transfer that feels like part of the shirt and one that feels stuck on. It takes five seconds. Do it.
Washing
Wait 24 hours before the first wash. Inside out, cold or warm, no bleach, no fabric softener, tumble low or hang. Don’t iron directly on the print. Done right, 50+ washes without cracking is normal.
When it goes wrong
| What you see | Most likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Edges lifting right after peel | Peeled warm, or too little pressure | Let it cool fully; tighten the press |
| Patchy, thin print | Peeled warm | Cold peel the next one |
| Cracks after a few washes | No second press, or too little time | Second press 5 s; add 3 s to the first |
| Shiny, plasticky surface | No second press | Press through parchment |
| Scorched or shiny fabric | Too hot for the garment | Drop 10–20°F; use a Teflon cover |
| Pink or grey halo around a red or black design on poly | Dye migration — too hot | 280°F, 15 s; test first |
| Transfer won’t release from film at all | Not enough heat or time | Check platen with a thermometer; add 3 s |
| Won’t stick anywhere | Silicone, softener or moisture in the garment | Wash the garment plain; pre-press longer |
If you’ve checked all of that and the film is still the problem, send us a photo. If it’s ours, we reprint.
